Posted on February 12, 2025
Chasing Shadows in the Himalayas: A Snow Leopard Encounter
By Dr. Paras B. Singh
In late January 2025, Professor Philip Nyhus, Director of Environmental Studies at Colby College, embarked on an unforgettable journey to Manang, Nepal. His mission was to explore Snow Leopard Haven and assess the feasibility of bringing his students for future research expeditions. What followed was a breathtaking adventure through the Himalayas, culminating in an awe-inspiring snow leopard sighting—an experience few are privileged to witness.
The Journey Begins
Professor Nyhus landed in Kathmandu on January 20th. With a tight schedule ahead, he wasted no time and embarked on a grueling 10-hour drive the next day from Kathmandu to Chame (8,888 ft), Manang’s gateway and district headquarter, best place to acclimatize before heading to Manang. The following morning, our team—comprising Dr. Nyhus, nature photographer Sameer Shrestha, and myself—set out from Hotel White Stupa, Chame at 10:30 AM. What should have been a two-hour drive to Manang stretched to five as we stopped at scenic locations, trekked through musk deer habitat, and soaked in the incredible landscapes.
While traversing the Neshyang valley, we stopped at the stunning Chhindi Lake under the shadow of Annapurna III and IV, surrounded by alpine forests. Behind us loomed Annapurna III and IV, while Pisang Peak and Julu Peak rose on the northern horizon. The sheer scale of the Himalayas was humbling. By evening, we arrived at Yeti Hotel in Manang, where we would spend the next two nights acclimatizing.
Into the Heart of Snow Leopard Country
After a routine health check at ACAP’s health post—ensuring we were fit for the high-altitude trek—we set off for Snow Leopard Haven. We were joined by snow leopard scout Prakash Gotame and lead ranger Buddhi Gurung. The trek from Manang to Tanki Manang took us three leisurely hours through an ethereal landscape of farmland, glacial lakes, stupas, and towering peaks. By the time we reached Snow Leopard Haven, chef Kiran was waiting with a warm meal.
The setting was magical. Nestled in the mountains, Snow Leopard Haven offers panoramic views of snow-covered peaks, blue sheep grazing on gentle slopes, and the occasional Himalayan and bearded vultures circling above. The lodge itself, adorned with mesmerizing paintings, felt like a sanctuary. But we were here for one reason—to see the elusive ghost of the mountains.
The First Attempt
At dusk, we ventured out to scan the ridges. Despite searching for over an hour, the snow leopard remained elusive. That night, over dinner, we strategized. We would rise before dawn and walk to a vantage point, camouflage ourselves behind juniper bushes, and patiently wait.
The next morning, we set out at first light, following the movement of vultures—often an indicator of a fresh kill. Excitement turned to frustration as two hours passed with no sign of the leopard. By 9:30 AM, we reluctantly decided to return to base. As we descended and were scanning areas for fresh pugmarks, ranger Buddhi Gurung suddenly came running after us, breathless. “The scout has spotted a leopard!” he called out.
Adrenaline surged. We scrambled back up, hearts pounding. The scout had moved higher, scanning the terrain. By the time we reached him, the leopard had disappeared into a rocky cave. We planned to wait until the leopard would emerge, but we could not do so and came back to base quite early—at 2 PM—despite the chance of seeing the leopard after sunset. While approaching the base, we spotted a herd of 14 blue sheep—prime prey for the big cat. Ranger Buddhi and Sameer later arrived, having captured photos of the blue sheep. Buddhi joked, “Snow leopard’s dinner is ready; it’s going to be a feast tonight!” We all laughed, but deep down, we knew our patience was being tested.
A Second Chance—and a Moment of Magic
The next morning, as Dr. Nyhus and I sat for breakfast with our driver Deepak, Sameer prepared for a photoshoot in the yard of Snow Leopard Haven. Just as we were about to start our meal, our scout came sprinting toward us, breathless, shouting in Nepali, “Dai, Hiu Jituwa!” (Brother, snow leopard!). I turned to Dr. Nyhus—“Snow leopard!”—and in an instant, we abandoned our breakfast and rushed down the slope.
Moments later, we spotted the mother—between two juniper bushes, barely visible against the rugged backdrop. A few minutes later, two cubs appeared under the shadow of wild rose shrubs. We cautiously approached, feeling as though they were exhausted. They were below us, and as we watched them, they watched us.
At first, one cub stepped out from the shade toward the riverside. After 15 minutes, the second cub followed. We held our breath, watching in silent reverence as they moved gracefully, one after the other, toward the river. Time stood still.
It was a moment beyond words, a privilege beyond measure. After years of research and countless treks, this was one of the most rewarding encounters of my life. The entire team was overwhelmed with joy. We returned to Snow Leopard Haven feeling truly blessed.
A Celebration in the Mountains
That afternoon, we celebrated our success with a toast of local beer, sharing stories and laughter. That evening, Professor Nyhus hosted a BBQ party for our team, recounting the incredible events of the past few days. The journey had been more than just an academic excursion—it was a testament to patience, perseverance, and the raw beauty of the wild.
As we left Manang, the mountains stood as silent witnesses to our adventure. For Professor Nyhus, this was just the beginning—an introduction to the magic of the Himalayas and the elusive snow leopard. For me, it was a reminder of why we dedicate our lives to conservation.
Somewhere in the high-altitude wilderness, a mother snow leopard and her cubs roam free. And we were among the lucky few who had the honor of witnessing them in their natural realm.
Professor Nyhus, editor of the book Snow Leopard, visited Snow Leopard Haven in January 2025. His extensive experience in wildlife conservation made this journey all the more significant, setting the stage for future research expeditions in this pristine Himalayan landscape.
