Posted on January 10, 2025
Carol Inskipp’s Journey to Snow Leopard Haven
Some journeys transcend time, honor legacy, and inspire future generations.
This is Carol Inskipp’s expedition to Snow Leopard Haven, nestled in the high mountains of the Himalayas at an altitude of 13,000 ft.
Carol Inskipp—a legend in the world of avifauna. A British ornithologist, conservationist, and co-author of iconic field guides to the birds of Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, and India—has shaped the understanding of South Asia’s birdlife for decades.
Her journey with Nepal began in 1977, and she has returned time and again. Now, at 76 years old, she embarks on what she believes may be her final expedition to the high Himalayas—but who knows?
Joining her is Dr. Paras Singh, a conservation ecologist conducting research on pheasants, snow leopards, red pandas, and musk deer. His work has redefined the known range of the Kashmir musk deer, confirming its presence in Nepal.
But this adventure is not just for two. Laxman Poudyal, a wildlife ecologist, Om Prakash Yadav, a renowned wildlife photographer, and Carol’s friend Mary Crosby, complete the team.
The Journey Begins
The expedition starts with a six-hour drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar. Following the Marsyangdi River, the team navigates through breathtaking waterfalls, the towering Manaslu Himalaya, and lush green slopes, reaching Chame, where they stay at Hotel White Stupa.
In Chame, birdwatching in the farmland proves unforgettable, with close encounters with Himalayan vultures.
On Day 3, the journey continues towards Pisang, blending driving and trekking. The trail passes through Ghyaru, Ngawal, and Bhraka, each location revealing stunning landscapes until they reach Manang. Here, the team stays at Hotel Yeti, savoring the warmth and hospitality of the region.
Change of Plans
At 11,600 ft, Mary begins to experience light-headedness. A doctor from the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) advises her to remain in Manang rather than ascend further. While she stays back to explore Manang and its surroundings, the rest of the team continues their climb to Snow Leopard Haven.
Into Snow Leopard Territory
On Day 5, the ascent from Manang to Gunsang begins. The morning birdwatching session proves rewarding, with sightings of numerous alpine birds. Om Yadav captures stunning photographs of the elusive white-browed tit-warbler.
At 11 AM, the team reaches Snow Leopard Haven—a place where blue sheep graze peacefully and fresh snow leopard footprints hint at the presence of the elusive predator.
For Carol, this moment surpasses all expectations. Even in her late 70s, the experience at Snow Leopard Haven has given her a compelling reason to return to the high Himalayas in 2026.
Reflections on an Unforgettable Expedition
Recently back from the Upper Manang trip, Carol shared her gratitude:
“Many thanks to Paras Singh for inviting me, for his excellent organization, and his irrepressible sense of humor (Paras took most of the photos here); to Mary Crosby for making the trip even more enjoyable; to Laxman Poudyal for his companionship and constant good nature; to Om Yadav for his outstanding photography; and last but not least, to Binod Gurung and the Namaste Manang team for their efficient trip management.
This was a phenomenal trip! The memories will last a lifetime.”
Highlights for Carol:
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- Staying at the wonderful Snow Leopard Haven Hotel
- Seeing fresh Snow Leopard footprints
- Spotting three Accentor species
- Witnessing White-browed Tit-warblers—her first sighting since 1977!